Over the Hill

My mom, Eileen, and Aunt Jeanette have been visiting since last Thursday. They fly home this Saturday. Given the short time they have here, I really wanted to make sure they see all the best sites and eat all the best food. To that end, we've kept up a fairly energetic schedule. One thing I hadn't contemplated in planning our activities is that all the best sites are on the tops of hills and all the bus stops and train stations are at the bottoms.

They made it safely and on-time despite the initial Icelandic volcano rumblings. Thursday night we had a light meal and got reacquainted.

Anticipating some jet-lag, we planned an easy schedule for Friday. A stroll around town in the morning and a duck for dinner. České Budějovice is flat. It sits at the confluence of the Malše and Vltava Rivers. The most climbing they had to do was up to our apartment. The 236 foot tall Black Tower called, however, and Grandma couldn't resist. We entered the black iron door to reveal the stone, spiral stairs. After a tight race up with a fellow half her age, she set foot on the 225th step. It was a sunny day, the view was magnificent. It was also approaching noon, the bells would be ringing soon, so we hurried down. Duck, red cabbage, and another attempt at bread dumplings made a filling dinner.

On Saturday we took a bus to Nove Hrady to visit a park called Terčino Udolí. This nature park was established by a noble for his daughter Teresa in the Stropnice River valley. It affords a relaxing stroll up and down the valley walls overlooking the babbling river. At one end is the gothic fortress Cuknštejn. It is privately owned - quite a house. The premier attraction is the artificial waterfall formed by diverting water in a concrete aquaduct for over a quarter mile to a 20 meter high rock outcrop when it spills over. We had chicken schnitzel with potatoes and a tomato, cucumber salad as a light dinner that night.

Sunday was church day. It was all in Czech, except two verses of I Believe in Christ sung by the choir (the link is not a recording of our choir singing it). Otherwise, the day was spent strolling to see peoples' gardens and talking. We had svičkova with dumplings for dinner. Still struggling with those dumplings. Crepes with Nutella spread on them for dessert.  

All adjusted and rested, we were ready to begin our adventures on Monday. The ladies, Silas, and Peter took the train to the village of Třisov where we hiked the 1.5 km to the castle ruins of Divči Kamen. The walk through the woods was nice, but when the ruins came into view across the Křemežský Stream valley, I started to wonder if this was a mistake. The hike down to the river is treacherous. The hike back up the other side into the castle is tiring. After a quick look around, during which Grandma once again insisted on visiting all the highest places in the ruins, we set out to catch our train. Jeanette got a head start while Eileen was exploring because the climb up the other side of the valley was going to be a bugger. When the rest of us got down to the river, Jeanette was nowhere to be seen. She wasn't resting in the shade. She wasn't visible climbing the opposite valley wall. I asked a school group that came along one of the trails that followed the river if they had seen her that way. No. I ran along the river trail the other way to see if she followed it. No sign. I was getting worried. Silas and I hurried up the slope all the way to the top. Finally, in the distance, through the trees, we could see Jeanette trucking along the trail. How she made it up that hill that quickly, I don't know. BBQ chicken pizza for dinner.

Tuesday was a celebration day. The kids skipped school and we all rode in a van lent to us by the Chrdlovi family to Česky Krumlov. This is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site situated in the Vltava River valley tightly surrounded by hills. The striking castle sits on a bluff overlooking the river. After a (relatively) short hike up to the castle, we wandered about the gardens and took a tour of the complex. The pictures that follow are from that trip. That night the Tučkovi family had us all over for Šišky s makem (poppy seed covered potato dumplings).

Cesky Krumlov Castle from across Vltava. From 2010-04	At one of the gates. From 2010-04
The toweriest of all towers to the left, city to the right. From 2010-04	The city. From 2010-04

Wednesday was a rest day. Just kidding. This time we took the bus to Hluboka nad Vltava. This is a quaint city set in the Vltava River valley. On a bluff overlooking the city is the ornate Hluboka Castle. I glanced around for horse drawn carts, rickshaws, taxis, anything to ease the journey to the top. No luck, we walked. After a tour in Czech and a walk through the collection of medieval religious art and later Dutch paintings, we walked back down, greeting a horse pulling a cart up the steep slope. Dinner consisted of Turkish Red Lentil Soup with Naan Bread and a Banana Pudding Trifle.



What remains? Lots. But there's only time for a whirlwind tour of Prague (Old Town Square today, Prague Castle, the Jewish Quarter, and an Opera tomorrow). Kristine has been to Europe five times now, always the Czech Republic, no great desire to see the rest until she has exhausted the treasures here.

It's been a nice visit. The kids have enjoyed having their Grandma and Auntie. The ladies look no worse for the wear.

Peter