Jihlava Revisited

We made a trip to the city of Jihlava on Saturday and Sunday. You may recall from a previous post (way back in October) that Jihlava was where we had originally thought to move. Kristine and I each felt impressed instead that we should move to České Budejovice, but this visit reminded us why we had been attracted to this historic old town.

We took a train most of the way, with the last half hour of the journey on bus. This part of the country is called the Vysočina, the highlands, and a bus ride up and down the hills around Jihlava left us all feeling a little motion sickness. Kristine's ancestors are also from the Vysočina (farther north and east near Polička) so she gets a primal coming home sort of feeling in addition to the queasiness.

Our first stop was the Hotel Vittoria, where we would be staying. I have to put a plug in for them because it was a huge room (we all shared a two room suite) at a good price less than 20 meters from the main square and they gave us a bunch of pastries for free. If you're ever looking to stay in Jihlava, I'd recommend checking it out.

We met Riša and Pani Peškova (Pani mean missus, she's his mom) for a tour of the catacombs under the city. I don't have any pictures (you have to pay extra to take them - I should have). The total length of tunnels under the city is 25 km. There are three levels, the first are two to four meters below ground and were built in the 14th century. The second are four to six meters down and the third are 8-14 meters down, these were added in the 16th century. They are carved out of the native granite and gneiss, though some corridors were reinforced with brick during the 17th century and concrete was poured to reinforce much of it during the 1960's. The passageways are generally 2.5-8 feet wide and 4-11 feet high. They have gutters running down them to drain the water that continuously drips from the rock. The water is collected in pools. There are also accesses to water wells and ventilation shafts that reach ground level. Their purpose was originally to store beer, wine, and dry goods. Later, they were use as underground utility corridors and air raid shelters.

The tour only covers a very small portion of the catacombs, but it is interesting. They show the various levels, the old construction, some of the original water pipes (charred, hollowed out logs), and other neat things. The most mysterious is the shining corridor. When the lights are turned off and one's eyes adjust to the dark, it becomes apparent that the walls are glowing. Is it some sort of biological material? Is it phosphorus leached from the bones of monks buried in higher level chambers? It turns out that it is from zinc sulfite and barium in the mortar on the walls. It is believed that this was either applied while German soldiers occupied the catacombs during WWII as orientation lighting or was the result of experiments they were performing.

We left the catacombs and rode with Riša to Roštejn Castle. We climbed the tower (which is frankly scary as heck with a three year old in your arms on drastically steep wooden stairs-more like a ladder) and looked around the courtyard. Here are some pictures...

The entry gate. From Jihlava2	The tower (also notice how the castle is built right into the natural rock on the right side). From Jihlava2
The courtyard featuring the corner with the chapel. From Jihlava2	The wall from the outside. From Jihlava2

The next morning, I went for a walk along the city walls in Jihlava. These are really good old walls. I walked along the outside of a portion that overlooks a steep valley with a small river running at the bottom of it. This was remarkably beautiful. This picture is from a different part that runs along a main highway through town.

Then we went to church. The cool morning air was perfumed with the scent of pine from the surrounding hills. This was Kristine's favorite area on her mission and, after all these years, the affection she shares with people from the branch here is obvious.

Afterwards we had lunch with the Peškovi. Pani Peškova made a knedliky, zeli (cabbage) and a duck that just about brought tears to my eyes, it was sooooooo good. Hanka (the young woman with whom Riša is friendly) made some spectacular prune kolache and linzer torte (she's a nurse, but I believe her true calling is baking). While we were eating, an American,Mark, who splits his time between working in Iraq and living in the Czech Republic arrived. He rents from the family. So we all sat together, eating and telling stories. Then, he revealed a special treat...A&W Root Beer. You can't find root beer here (Mark says there is one place in Prague that carries it sometimes, but when word gets out to all the American expats living there that a new shipment is in, it sells out in hours) because Czechs hate it - they say it tastes like medicine (which, frankly, if you will hearken back to the old creosote-based cough syrups, it does taste medicinal).

Then, an old friend, Jarda Svoboda, picked us up and took us to his mother's place in a village outside of Jihlava. There we sat and talked with Jarda, his mother, and his sister while we snacked on, among other things, an Apple Strudel (capitalized out of respect) that was phenomenal (what a day). This was really nice. Jarda and his sister were among the first members of the church baptized in Jihlava back when the missionaries first came following the Velvet Revolution. It is, of course, bittersweet to see photos of the vibrant youth group from back then. Some of the faces are familiar, older now, with kids of their own. Others, for whatever reasons, have drifted away and you feel sad for them, knowing the peace the gospel brings. Anyway, two interesting tree stories. Jarda planted a peach tree in the garden. Peach trees don't grow in that part of the Czech Republic, but he is passionately determined to see this one become fruitful. Then, while we were on a walk, he pointed across some fields to a stately linden tree on the next hill just before the forest. He explained that his great, great grandfather sent all five of his sons to fight in WWI. When they all finally returned safely from the war ( the youngest son fighting in Russia took three years to get home after the war ended--all had assumed him dead), he planted the tree as thanks to God for preserving them.

Then we went back to Jihlava and met, briefly, with Riša's sister Daša and her two kids, Viktor and Katka (who are the same ages as Caleb and Lucy). They are super energetic people and great fun to chat with. Unfortunately, we got there late and missed seeing her husband Otakar.

 We had to leave in a hurry to catch our  train (filled with obnoxious teenagers headed back to Ceske Budejovice for the school week and some disgustingly drunk fellows who stumbled past us on their repeated trips to the bathroom). We spent about 29 hours in Jihlava, not nearly enough, and this was our last visit there this time around.

Oh folks, between parting from people for the last time and knowing that my days of walking along the Malše River are numbered, I'm starting to get a little emotional. It's great to know so many wonderful people here and to realize, that while we will miss them, we will soon be surrounded by wonderful people back in Minnesota.

-Peter